Experience the Essence of Sant Joan

If you visit Menorca between late June and early September, your stay will coincide with the local fiesta season on the island. These fiestas are always associated with a Patron Saint and all have the elegant purebred Menorcan stallions and incredibly skilled local riders, mainly from farming families, as their protagonists. 

The original fiesta on which all the others are based, ‘Sa Festa de Sant Joan’ (the Feast of Saint John the Baptist), is held every year in Ciutadella on the 23rd & 24th of June, and the Sunday before, this year the 18th June. Three official days of beautiful and emotive ceremony and celebration that dates back centuries.

It’s certainly the most incredible experience, with one important caveat: it is only for those who love horses and have a tolerance for crowds of passionate people! It’s most definitely not for everyone.

Sant Joan (pronounced Jo-an) is a fiesta that is truly at the heart of the people of Ciutadella and a custom of which they are both very protective and proud. A mixture of tradition, religion, music, people, animals, dance, food, gin, colour, laughter, family and friendship. The very best of what you would imagine a Spanish fiesta to be, and very much representative of some of the most treasured values of the Menorcan lifestyle. 

However, it’s important to know that in the last 10 years, due to social media and increased accessibility via ferry, there has been a huge influx of youth that pour into the town from Mallorca and Barcelona. Combining crowds of over 20,000 with well over 100 horses into limited spaces, it’s important to know where and when to go to enjoy it, and which parts are best left to the locals. 

It’s impossible to do justice to the whole fiesta in this one article. If you would like to discover more about the events of each day and the beautiful symbolism of the fiesta, there are several articles on my blog Menorca Blue, to learn more about it. 

Keep in mind that this is Spain, so the events of the fiesta will happen without fail, but in most aspects the timing is approximate.

HERE ARE THE ESSENTIALS TO KNOW:

Día des Be – Sunday 18th June 2023

On the first official day of the fiesta, the protagonist is a sheep instead of a horse. A man representing Saint John the Baptist, dressed in sheepskin carrying the sheep on his shoulders, is accompanied by the official committee of horse riders and the sound of a drum and flute, as they visit houses around the historic centre of Ciutadella. It’s tough to time it, you would be lucky to catch a glimpse. Carnival rides open this weekend for the kids.

Nit des Festers – Thursday 22nd June 2023

Ciutadella hosts several bonfires around the centre of the town at night. Different musical groups wander around town between the bonfires.

Dissabte de Sant Joan – Friday 23rd June 2023

This is the first day with the horses and the most intense in every way. It’s normally very hot and very crowded. If you are going to go, my recommendation is at night, after 9.30pm and not with very small children.

Primer Toc & Replec – from 2.00pm – 6.00pm

The official acts start at 2.00pm sharp in one of the palaces in the centre of town with the ‘Primer Toc’, the first strike of the drum and flute. The ‘Fabioler’, the rider who leads the cavalcade of over 100 horses, requests permission to start the ‘Replec’ which is the calling of the other horse riders to the cavalcade.  

Caragol des Born – 6.00pm

At 6.00pm sharp, ‘El Caixer Senyor’, head of the cavalcade, gallops through the crowd at full speed to the centre of the main plaza and the band strikes up the festival tune called the ‘Jaleo’. With no barricades, the cavalcade loops the packed plaza three times, occasionally horses rising on their hind legs. It’s the most intense part of the whole fiesta. Access to the Plaza is controlled by Police and has limited capacity.

Sant Joan de Missa & Ses Avellanas – from 7.30pm (approx)

The cavalcade then leaves Ciutadella till nightfall returning around 9.30pm. In the meantime, those in town enjoy the carnival rides in the centre square, or ‘tossing of the hazelnuts’ (an old tradition) on the ‘Contramurada’ street on the perimeter of the historical centre.

Corregudes de Sa Plaça i Ses Voltes – 10.00pm (approx)

The cavalcade heads to the central street of the old town ‘Ses Voltes’, the street with the arches. The whole cavalcade laps this strip three times to the Cathedral Plaza.

Caragol de Santa Clara – 11.00pm (approx)

The cavalcade moves to the streets surrounding the church of Santa Clara and loops the route 3 times. This takes time, as many of the houses open their doors for the horses to enter the houses! It’s surprising and delightful to see, yet you have to be wary of what’s in front of you AND behind you at all times. Lots of people, lots of horses. 

It goes well into the night and those with enough energy to keep dancing usually finish up in the nightclubs in the Port. 

Día De Sant Joan – 24th June

The agenda for the actual feast day is mostly a repetition of the day before. The same sequence repeats in the morning and the night with a closed mass and lunch in the middle of the day. 

Primer Toc & Replec – from 8.00am

Same as the previous day, mid-morning the cavalcade heads down to the Port to practise for the mediaeval games which are held in the evening. I recommend meeting them in the Port to watch the action.

Jocs des Pla des matí – Mid-morning

There are three types of games. First is jousting on horseback towards a target that resembles a large curtain ring hung at the end of the passageway of the Port. The second is the breaking of wooden shields on galloping horseback, and the third translates to ‘galloping hugs’. Common Sense Tip: Stand far away from the galloping horses, view from a distance!

Corregudes de Sa Plaça i Ses Voltes – until 1.00pm (approx)

When the games end, the cavalcade heads back up to Ses Voltes and then Santa Clara for another lap around and in and out of the houses, same as the previous day.

Convidada a la l’Ajuntament & Jocs des Pla – from 7.00 – 11.00pm 

At 7.00pm, the cavalcade arrives at the town hall to request permission to officially start the games in the Port. Then the cavalcade heads down to the port where the games commence. Finishing with the final vigorous ‘Jaleo’ by the horses and band. Warning, it’s very crowded. Go for the atmosphere which is fantastic, but the views are limited and it’s a long time to stand. The best view is on television on IB3.

Caragol de Ses Voltes & Caragol de Santa Clara – from 11.00pm 

Same as the previous day, three laps of each, finishing well after midnight. The best chance to see the horses up close and calm during the night.

Sant Joanet – Sunday 25th June – Fireworks 11.00pm

A day of recovery for everyone post-fiesta, that ends with a fireworks display over the sea. The best views are on the coastline on either side of the Port just north of Ciutadella on the road beyond the lighthouse ‘Sa Farola’ and on the south side around the small castle ‘Castell de Sant Nicolau’.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

Decide if it’s worth it & pay attention at all times: It’s full-on fiesta fun, Spanish style! 

It’s your responsibility to take care of yourself 

Sant Joan is a local fiesta for local people. As a tourist, you have to be prepared to go with the flow and be very cautious of what is going on around you at all times. When in doubt, stay out of the way. There are no barricades. Horses have no brakes, riders have no rear view. Sometimes you need to be wary of the gin-fueled crowds. It’s not the running of the bulls but you have to be on guard not to walk into the middle of the cavalcade or put yourself in danger to take a photo. Read that last sentence again, accidents do happen, make sure it’s not you. If you hear the band step away from the horses fast as it’s going to get crazy!

Travel light, dress appropriately

It’s not a place for open shoes, skirts, big bags, valuables or prams. Recommended are sneakers, jeans/shorts, sunscreen and a hat. There is a lot of walking and standing, not many places to sit in the shade. Keep that in mind.

Consider event timings and travel plans 

During the hottest part of the day, there is nothing to see. The best way to get to Ciutadella is by taxi, bus timetables are scarce and more so after midnight. Check with your local tourist office for more information. If you come by car you need a designated driver or to leave it there overnight. Parking is on the outskirts as the centre is closed, you then have to walk to the centre for at least 10 – 15 minutes. Police with alcohol control are on all roads out of Ciutadella at all hours.

Go easy on the ‘Gin amb llimonada’ 

If you are not used to it, Gin & Lemon is a sweet and strong drink that goes down well and will have you in the fiesta spirit in no time. The small cups make you lose count quickly. Eat well beforehand, drink lots of water and pace yourself. That’s the way the locals do it. It’s a marathon, not a sprint.

Choose what to enjoy, you can’t see it all

No one can see it all, not even the 100+ horse riders. Pick where to go and arrive well before the horses and crowds. Private homes are invite-only, not open to the public. My recommendation if you have to choose, would be to go on the morning of the 24th of June. Most of the partygoers are asleep, it’s family-friendly for the kids and the horses are calm. It’s great for taking photos and getting up close without the crowds and potential danger. My memories as a child with my grandparents are from wandering the streets early on the 24th of June.

The carnival rides are open in the evening all week

Each year the centre plaza ‘Es Born’ is closed to host the carnival rides which open each evening. You can also enjoy some sweets, ice cream or traditional ‘churros’. No horses or excess of people most days, only on the 23rd & 24th of June.

‘Axi tot va be’ as the locals say which means ‘This way, all goes well.’ 

Wishing you all a safe and fun Sant Joan! It’s a privilege to be a part of it and you will never forget it.

Article was originally posted in the June 2023 Edition of ROQUETA, Menorca’s English Magazine.
Roqueta Magazine is celebrating 50 years in 2023, for more information or to subscribe visit
https://roquetamagazine.net/